To output 16Bit files with the noritsu scanners, you need a special software called “EZ-Controller”. The software “unlocks” certain features including the possibility to output 16Bit TIFF files.
To use and unlock the EZ-Controller Software, a hardware key is needed which costs arround 700-1000€ right now. Because I already bought the scanner, I don’t have the money to buy the hardware key yet.
As soon as I have the money together, I will buy the EZ-Controller hardware key so I can offer 16Bit files (without charging extra of course).
There is nothing wrong with your local lab. Reasons why people scan through my service are:
- Uncompressed files in full resolution
- Lower prices (full resolution “.tiff” scans can cost up to 25€ per Roll)
- Not having a professional scanner but developing your own film at home
- Supporting small/local “one-man” businesses (ha ha)
There are a lot of possibilities to send film/negatives through the postal service.
- Uncut rolls can be rolled up into an empty film container and sent in a blister envelope
- If you have a lot of negatives in film containers, you can also use a small package (higher shipping cost)
- Cut negatives can be sent with a standard postal envelope
- Uncut rolls can be carefully rolled up and sent with a blister envelope or in a small box (the film shouldn’t be squeezed or kinked in any way!)
- Cut rolls can be sent with a postal envelope
Its always a good idea to put the negatives in another seperate (plastic) bag or sleeve to protect them from humidity and water damage.
Sadly I cant. Professional Film Scanners like the Noritsu or Fuji Frontier machines were designed to scan high resolution images in a short amount of time. “Back in the days” sprocket holes were not seen as part of the final image. Sorry.
My service focuses itself more on the quality of the images rather than the quantity. There are special archive scanning services which focus more on digitizing a big amount of negatives rather than getting the best possible image. These services are also a lot cheaper for big quantities.
There are a lot of factors in film photography that impact the look/quality of the final image.
Here are the most common factors that will impact your final image:
- Film Stock (e.g. Kodak Porta 160, Kodak Gold, Fujifilm NPH 400)
- Used lens (Sharpness, Color)
There are a lot of different film stocks still available. Ranging from black and white, color negative to positive color film and more. Of course there are differences in film stocks. Some rolls cost up to 15€ while others cost 4€. Thats because professional film stocks like the “Kodak Portra” or “Fujifilm Pro” series of film will result in higher quality pictures compared to a cheap roll of “Kodak Gold 200”. That doesn’t mean you can’t get good images out of a cheaper film but the cheaper films won’t give you the best quality possible.
Overexposure is better in film photography than in digital photography. A lot of film shooters will know this. On the other hand, underexposure can introduce a lot of grain, shifted colors and muddy shadows to your film. Correct exposure will go a long way in film photography. Good exposure will also create a lot more headroom for correction when scanning the negatives.
Color film like C41 shouldn’t be a problem. Its a standardized process and most of the labs still out there will do a good job developing your film right. Doing C41 (Color Negative Film) at home is a lot easier than people think.
With black and white film its a little more complicated. Different developers have different effects and will impact the the look of your images a lot. Some developers are sharper than others, some produce a flatter image, while others maybe increase shadow detail. If the development failed or is not done correctly, the film can be grainy or muddy in the shadows which is hard to fix with the scanning process.
If you ever asked yourself why there are 50mm lenses that cost 50€ and others that cost 400€, it’s because different lenses can have varying degrees of sharpness that they can produce or different rendition of colors and contrast. Thats why lenses will also impact the outcome of your final image.
The scan of your negatives will have a big impact on your final image. Some of the most important factors of film scanners are their resolution, correct color rendition and the maximum density the device can scan. If you have a perfectly exposed negative which was shot with a good lens and perfect focus, a bad scan will still make your final image look bad. A good scan and a little post processing can make all the difference if you are looking for the perfect end result.
A lot of people are looking for a specific look in their film photography. To achieve the same look as your favorite film photographer, you would have to shoot the same film, in the same light, with the same exposure and lens as the photographer. And even if that would be possible, you would need the same scanning and developing process as the photographer.
At the moment I am using Google Drive to upload the scanned files. After the scanning process is complete, I will upload your images in a zipped file. After the upload is finished, you will recieve the download link.
To open a zipped file (.rar – .zip files), please use Winrar, 7Zip or the built in Zip-Tool from Windows 10
Scanning cut rolls of film takes considerably more time than scanning uncut film. Before I can start scanning, I clean the film to reduce dust. After that I feed the film into the scanner and can start the scan process. With a single roll of film I only have to do this once. With cut film I have to do it for every single film strip.
Scanning a cut roll of 35mm (Strips of six frames) film can take up to twice as long as an uncut roll.
Most professional film scanners have technology to reduce and/or remove dust from scans. For example, the digital ICE technology removes dust and scratches from color film. Sadly this technology doesn’t work for black and white images. Even though I clean and air blow the negatives before scanning, there can still be a lot of really small dust particles on the negative.
Dust can easily be removed with the stamp tool in Photoshop or Lightroom.